Kovancilar to Urmia (day 5)

I get my 4am wake up call, why break with tradition?

I leave the 'hotel' and I'm on the road just before the sun rises. Turkey again reveals that it has some stunning roads and scenery to offer.

I'm following the signs towards Van and I reach what I think is the sea but it's in fact lake Van Gölü. It's a magnificent sight and the water is a rich blue in colour. The road hugs the lake until I see the sign for Iran.

I'm heading for Baskale, Yüksekova and eventually Esendere. After I take the road for Iran I get a strange feeling - all I have in front of me is a straight road with nothing much else around. I suddenly think that I should have filled the tank up a few km back. I then pass old abandoned petrol stations and I'm not feeling very confident about my fuel range!

I find fuel at a small village and then get back on the road. I'm a few minutes out of town and in my shaking mirror I think I see a motorbike light. I do a double take, yes, it's two bikes and they're travelling my way. The first bikes I've  seen on my trip.

We ride together as I know they're going to Iran too. Then I recall the email from Hossein, he's expecting a couple to arrive at the guest house tonight. Maybe it's them?

The road to the boarder is great with a treat of a mountain pass that rises to just over 2,700m and the view on the valley below is amazing. Spectacular. We continue down the other side and there's more construction work going on. The old road is being widened and of course what better way to keep you on your toes when riding - have some loose gravel on blind bends.

There's a lot of military presence in the area. We arrive at the final turning for Yüksekova and there's a military check point, we're asked to slow down. Problem? No, we're waved through without any issues. The road is 2 lanes and it weaves its way through a valley. It's light with traffic until we get to some sort of gathering/demonstration. No idea what's going on except that there are people all crowded under a tree. In Yüksekova there's a heavy presence of police armored cars. One is driving in the same direction as us and the machine gun is swiveling around. Searching for what??

We stop at a petrol station and finally do the formal introductions - Björn and Willemenia. They're riding BMW's - black 800gs and 650 Sertao. Where you guys headed? Sydney. Ahh, makes me little tour seem like a Sunday ride them.

40km from the border now and they message Hossein that we'll be there soon. Esendere border crossing is under construction, the place is a mess. No signs to indicate where to go. People pointing you in various directions. First check is for vehicle check. Hand over document, guy taps in reg number. Confirm that's my name on the screen and off I go to passport control. That's about 200m further down the construction site.

Cut to the front of the queue. A guy wearing jeans and a T-shirt stops me. You need to do passport control. OK, where? The building behind me. Walk in and I've no idea where to go. First desk, nope this is for people leaving Iran and entering Turkey. Try the next guy. Next guy, all good, passport stamped, proceed to Iran side. Iran side, "welcome, come this way". Friendly reception, passport taken and checked. I hear, " Kennst du Deutsch ". What is turning into, German lessons on the road. It's an Iranian guy who lives in Germany and is back visiting his parents. We chat and he translates for the border guards who want to know where I'm from etc..I get offered tea but I'm sweating so I politely decline.

Passport back I ask about my Carnet, where do I go. I'm brought to another office and told to wait. One guy looks at me, takes a look at my documents and tells me to sit down. I notice a little sign above his head - 'director'. 15 minutes later the Carnet has been stamped. I can go?? Yes!! All happy that I can take the bike and move it. Wrong! I'm walking back from the Iranian side towards the bike. One guy has my documents and tells me I'm good to move, the border guard with the machine gun on his lap seems to think not. His colleague tells him it's fine. I get on the bike and move it. Turkish guy in jeans from earlier tells me to bring the bike back. Why?? I've not cleared vehicle customs. Again? Which desk? Some random stranger brings me to the desk. Another 5 minutes and I'm good to go.

Go back out, Mr Jeans tells me I'm finally good to go. I park next to the  BMW's. Iranian guy comes out and asks me for my documents. Sorry but no idea where they are, your colleague took them. Another border guard steps in and helps me. He brings me back into the passport control area. Hossein is standing there with all my documents. Relief. I realise I've left my key in the ignition, another little panic. A while later I go to get my key and over enthusiastic guard keeps asking for my passport. Don't have it I tell him!

Hossein knows the people here and has managed to get barriers opened quicker. Passport checked by Mr Enthusiastic and we ride towards the Iranian barrier. Nope, we're greeted by a large man with a serious amount of cash in his hands. Time to change money. He's interested in Euros and not dollars. Maybe he's got a swap deal going on the Grexit, who knows. Money changed and I'm an instant millionaire.

We follow Hossein to his guest house in Urmia. Traffic in the city is manic, a bit different to what I experienced in India. I think the simple rule is try not to get hit!

Arrive at the guest house, there are two other bikes and a jeep from Australia.

Please read
www.gsdownunder.com

and

www.thislifeoutside.com

Distance travelled: 660km