I started early this morning, packing my bags and putting the side bags onto the bike. I was going to be leaving at 8am when I was told I would get my passport back.
There was a younger man at the hostel and I asked him about changing my Rials to Turkmen Manat. No problem, he calls a guy who came to the hostel and we swapped currency. Rate was as close to an online rate I checked, so happy enough.
At 7:30 the guy gives me my passport back and I'm good to go. Half an hour earlier than expected. There are four Swiss people at the hostel too and they're part of the Mongol Rally.
I ride up to the border control point, the barrier is down but one of the people there tells me to go through. I'm always a bit hesitant at the moments. I wait then I see the border guard, he tells me to come through.
Passport and Carnet please. They ask me about my stay in Iran, what the people were like. They even offer me some of their breakfast. Why can't all border crossings be like this? Proceed to the next building, 2km up the hill.
I'm early for this part as the staff have not arrived yet. I talk with two men from Turkmenistan. They've been to Iran on business. I get my passport stamped and then look for the guy to stamp my Carnet.
I find a guy who tells me that it's not stamped. Ehh, I know, which office do I go to? He points me in the general direction then a few minutes later comes over and starts the check and stamping the page.
He tells me to get the motorbike and bring it to the exit gate. Here my bike is checked over, sniffer dog checks the bike. I'm asked again about the value of my bike. All is in order and I can proceed. Ride 15 meters and another passport control. The guards ask me about my stay and the people.
Then roll 3 meters through the gate and it's time for the fun and games in Turkmenistan. So passport control - are you part of the Rally? Nope but I'm going in the same direction as them. Now go to the other office straight ahead. Here I'm waiting for someone to open a door for some document before they'll check my passport.
Some woman arrives and just tells me '$12'. I pay and she just tells me "Bye bye". Get my passport checked. Where are you staying? What's your route, where you staying?
Next off to vehicle control. Walk into one office, guy takes a look at me, then I'm told to go over to another office. Walk in and the two guys are playing domino's. Don't worry guys I'll wait for you to finish your game before you deal with my vehicle documents.
Documents checked, route checked, now go to the bank. Pay $65 then walk into another office, guy just stamps my form and tells me to go next door (where I was already). Another check, OK now off to vehicle check.
I move the bike to the vehicle control section. Four or five guys appear, go inside sign another document and now back outside to examine my luggage. I'm asked if I've got any gaz? Just a little bottle for camping evenings. No, no guns, guns (with hand motions of guns). No, no of course not. They ask me to open my side bags and they check what I've got in there. All clear, you can go now, just give it some gas and pull a wheelie when you leave!
The road from the main complex down towards Ashgabat is another great road. It's so isolated here and at one point I get four small deer cross the road in front of me. About 10km later there's another passport control. Takes two minutes and then I'm free to go to Ashgabat. I could see the city from the road in the mountain and I could make out the big blue hotel. As I get into the city I'm in awe of this place, the streets are big and clean. The buildings are all white and immaculate. Never seen anything like this before. Remarkable.
I head for a hotel which is in my GPS and it's the Ak Altyn. I pull up and I'm told to park in front of the main entrance. It's too early to check-in Sergei tells me. I can go to restaurant, 24 hour, for drink and food. I eat and I drink. I then get shown two rooms, pick one.
I hope to spend the day walking around the city to see what it's like. The heat is a killer today.
Total distance: 60km
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