Don't have any pictures to post from today's ride as the group (me and two other bikes) needed to make good progress to get to the border with Tajikistan.
First task was to get the bikes out of the hotel courtyard, just a small step to bump up and then we're free to get on the road to Tashkent.
Brian (from Australia) goes first. He's fully loaded as he's got his wife as pillion. He gives the GSA a handful of throttle and he's almost out. A bit of a push and he's out. Next it's my turn. I do the same and I manage to get over the step and out without too much hassle. I'm carrying less weight which probably helps.
Now if a fully loaded GSA isn't big enough how about getting the GSA with the sidecar out of there. There was little room for manoeuvre but driving it forward and pushing it back (no reverse gear!) we line it up and it's ready to go. It won't go on the first or second attempt, so we find some bricks and make the step a bit easier. Still hard going as the sidecar doesn't have a driven wheel.
We're out and into the morning mayhem of traffic in Samarkand. We wanted to go north out of the city to where there were petrol stations but there is a policeman diverting the traffic.
The GPS leads us onto the right road out of town and now all we want to do is look for fuel, just in case we don't have any open stations along our route. There's an old station with a single pump working and two cars waiting. They've got fuel. Now the system here in Uzbekistan is that you have to tell them how much fuel you want and the pump is set so that it dispenses just that amount. I look at my trip meter, have a look in the tank and guess 3 litres, maybe 4 if I have the time to do it myself.
Off I go to pay otherwise they won't give you the fuel. I tell the guy 3 litres, he wants 90,000 Soum - I'm nodding my head, no! Then the calculator is out and he punches 30 litres - there's the misunderstanding. All fueled up we're ready to leave and I find myself being the meat in a GS Adventure sandwich.
The road out goes up a small pass, GPS showing about 600m elevation. It's farmland around here and we also catch a glimpse of a bird of prey circling to our left. We carry on for another while and then pull over to say goodbye to Damien who's going to Tashkent.
We turn off and head east on a road that runs along side the border with Tajikistan. The area doesn't look the most populated. There's the usual sight of abandoned petrol stations, I'm checking my fuel gauge. Am I going to make it!
We approach the town of Shirin and this is a town which is a Soviet style town with oppressive looking apartment blocks and old sports complexes which are falling into decay. I'm almost surprised to see people here as I think that they've all left. At one point the road is only meters away from the border, fenced off of course, and I caught a glimpse of a sign which said "no stopping on road as on border". End of the stretch of road and there's a watchtower!
We get to a border crossing but they won't let us through. It's one for locals only so we have to continue north for about 40km to get to our crossing.
Entering and leaving Uzbekistan is a fairly lengthy procedure. Make your declaration of money and goods. Then it's the vehicle check, and when exiting don't forget to keep the documents they gave you when you entered. After documents comes the scrutiny of all your bags and what's in them. I must admit that the exit into Tajikistan was shorter than the entry from Turkmenistan.
Move onto the Tajik border. Fill out a form, put something in a field that you weren't supposed to. Soldier mumbles something, he's not happy with the tourists. Time to fill the form out again. Move to passport control, friendly greeting of "Welcome to Tajikistan". 5 minutes and we can move to the next point. Next it's time to get the transit papers and pay the fee. It's $10. Easy! Off we go and we're ready to expl.... Nope, one final passport control before the gate is opened.
Waiting for the final check a car comes speeding towards the gate. The driver slams on the brakes, the wheels lock up a bit. He stops it just a meter or two in front of the gate. He beckons the soldier to come to him. I'm expecting the gun to be ready to fire. Wrong again, they've ordered some takeaway. It was just a delivery.
Ride into Khujand was very pleasant. The difference between the two countries is night and day. The roads are better and there are brand new petrol stations along the way. We stopped to fuel up and say goodbye as Brian and Shirley are doing the Pamir highway and going into Kyrgyzstan from there. Fuel attendant comes out to us and gives us a melon each. We can't accept as we've got no space to put them on the bikes!
I wouldn't have been able to have done anymore today as the heat was getting to me and all I wanted was a shower and something to eat.
Brian had mentioned that his friends in Mongolia are such due to heavy rain which would make the northern route difficult. I'm now considering changing my route as doing that alone would be very difficult. I spent the morning ride thinking what my alternatives are.
That's all for today.
Distance 337km
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