Bajgiran to Ashgabat (day 11)

I started early this morning, packing my bags and putting the side bags onto the bike. I was going to be leaving at 8am when I was told I would get my passport back.

There was a younger man at the hostel and I asked him about changing my Rials to Turkmen Manat. No problem, he calls a guy who came to the hostel and we swapped currency. Rate was as close to an online rate I checked, so happy enough.

At 7:30 the guy gives me my passport back and I'm good to go. Half an hour earlier than expected. There are four Swiss people at the hostel too and they're part of the Mongol Rally.

I ride up to the border control point, the barrier is down but one of the people there tells me to go through. I'm always a bit hesitant at the moments. I wait then I see the border guard, he tells me to come through.

Passport and Carnet please. They ask me about my stay in  Iran, what the people were like. They even offer me some of their breakfast. Why can't all border crossings be like this? Proceed to the next building, 2km up the hill.

I'm early for this part as the staff have not arrived yet. I talk with two men from Turkmenistan. They've been to Iran on business. I get my passport stamped and then look for the guy to stamp my Carnet.

I find a guy who tells me that it's not stamped. Ehh, I know, which office do I go to? He points me in the general direction then a few minutes later comes over and starts the check and stamping the page.

He tells me to get the motorbike and bring it to the exit gate. Here my bike is checked over, sniffer dog checks the bike. I'm asked again about the value of my bike. All is in order and I can proceed. Ride 15 meters and another passport control. The guards ask me about my stay and the people.

Then roll 3 meters through the gate and it's time for the fun and games in Turkmenistan. So passport control - are you part of the Rally? Nope but I'm going in the same direction as them. Now go to the other office straight ahead. Here I'm waiting for someone to open a door for some document before they'll check my passport.

Some woman arrives and just tells me '$12'. I pay and she just tells me "Bye bye". Get my passport checked. Where are you staying? What's your route, where you staying?

Next off to vehicle control. Walk into one office, guy takes a look at me, then I'm told to go over to another office. Walk in and the two guys are playing domino's. Don't worry guys I'll wait for you to finish your game before you deal with my vehicle documents.

Documents checked, route checked, now go to the bank. Pay $65 then walk into another office, guy just stamps my form and tells me to go next door (where I was already). Another check, OK now off to vehicle check.

I move the bike to the vehicle control section. Four or five guys appear, go inside sign another document and now back outside to examine my luggage. I'm asked if I've got any gaz? Just a little bottle for camping evenings. No, no guns, guns (with hand motions of guns). No, no of course not. They ask me to open my side bags and they check what I've got in there. All clear, you can go now, just give it some gas and pull a wheelie when you leave!

The road from the main complex down towards Ashgabat is another great road. It's so isolated here and at one point I get four small deer cross the road in front of me. About 10km later there's another passport control. Takes two minutes and then I'm free to go to Ashgabat. I could see the city from the road in the mountain and I could make out the big blue hotel. As I get into the city I'm in awe of this place, the streets are big and clean. The buildings are all white and immaculate. Never seen anything like this before. Remarkable.

I head for a hotel which is in my GPS and it's the Ak Altyn. I pull up and I'm told to park in front of the main entrance. It's too early to check-in Sergei tells me. I can go to restaurant, 24 hour, for drink and food. I eat and I drink. I then get shown two rooms, pick one.

I hope to spend the day walking around the city to see what it's like. The heat is a killer today.

Total distance: 60km

Shirvan to Bajgiran (day 10)

Very lazy start to the day as the ride to the border is not that long. I leave the hotel just after 10am, after a photo with the manager of the hotel. He's a very pleasant man who offered me some free food yesterday and then a plate of fruit.

My plan is to stay in Bajgiran and get an early start to clear the borders. I really want the chance to see Ashgabat, possibly spend half a day looking at the marble buildings I've read about.

It's about 75km to Quchan and there's little traffic on the road today. There's a gravel track running parallel to the road, so I drop into it to have a bit of fun and see how the bike feels. I do it a couple of times. I could have done a fair amount of that journey on the adjacent gravel but I wasn't fully focused when I set off so preferred to stick to the tarmac.

I fill up in the town of Quchan, I don't need much but best to have a full tank and get rid of as much local currency as possible. I'll pay for the hostel and then change the remaining Rials to Turkmen Manat in the morning at the border.

The road from Quchan to Bajgiran is fantastic, it makes its way up into the mountain and initially it's farm land as far as I can see. It's quite and there's very little traffic in my direction but a lot of traffic coming from the other direction. At one point I thought that I'd missed a turn off as the signs didn't have any English spelling on them. The signs show a town called Dargaz which I don't remember seeing on the map. Relief as I see the sign post for Bajgiran.

I arrive in the village just after 1pm and I go to the building that is supposed to be a hostel. From the various information online I know it's the first building on the left. I ask a soldier and he points to the building. I find the man with the keys and I'm in. It is either still under construction or it's crumbling to pieces but I've got a roof over my head tonight.

Tomorrow will bring its own challenge with the border crossings.

Iran it has been a great experience.

Total distance: 152km

Gorgan to Shirvan (day 9)

I have the worst night of sleep in a while, sleeping next to the road wasn't such a great idea as the traffic was constant all through the night.

I get up and start to pack up my things and get ready for departua bottle of water in the building with the soldiers and policeman but it's locked and they're still asleep. I have to wait for them to get up. I take out the map and look at how far I've got to go and where I should I top so that I'm at the border crossing ready to cross. 

I then realise that I'm a bit ahead of schedule. I'll potentially be at the border on the 27th but my visa for Turkmenistan doesn't start until the 28th! The guards are up and I bring the map in to ask which route I should take towards Mashhad. I can continue along my northern route or drop down and continue east towards Mashhad. He tells me to continue on the current road and stop in Shirvan.

Stopped for tea are a small shop at the road side, you can see giant kettles with boiling water. A few people gather around and the owner's son seems interested in the bike. The kid has his picture taken with him sitting on the bike. One of the other lurkers decides that he wants a piece of the action and and jumps on the bike. I panic as this man might topple the bike over with his enthusiastic behavior.

There was nothing special to see on the first part of this route but then it all changed as it started going through the Golestan National Park. The scenery is fantastic, much needed after a couple of days of similar looking towns.

There's hardly any traffic and I'm settled into my 85-95km/h rhythm. I stop to take the occasional photo and admire the view. I'm approaching the town of Bojnurd and it's much bigger than I expected. I'm on the mountain road on the way down to the city and it looks big, bigger than I could have imagined for a remote area. I stop off to get some water and of course the next crowd draws in. They want to chat but we have a language barrier.

I push on towards Shirvan. I stop to ask some kids for a hotel and food. They point to a restaurant 20 meters away from where I parked. I go in, the people look at me. I feel a bit out of place. I try to order food with pointing at the menu pictures. A guy appears and speaks very good English. He helps me out. Another man appears, out comes a pen and notepad. I'm told he's a reporter, I'm asked for name, age where I'm from, where I'm traveling and how have I found my journey through Iran so far. I'm going to be in the news tomorrow! The celebrity life is tough I can tell you!

I also get directions to a hotel, just on the outskirts of town. I head there after eating. It looks abandoned, I walk through the door, guy at reception is almost surprised to see me. He doesn't speak English but some German (again!). We negotiate a rate. He then tells me to park the bike in front of the door and not leave it in the car park, for security reasons. The hotel seems empty and I think I'm the only guest. Later I see some other guests. 

Total distance travelled: 358km

Ardabil to Ramsar (day 7)

The day started with the collection of the motorbike at the multistory car park - yes we open at 7am. Arrive just after 7 and not a soul in sight. It's Friday which is the weekend here. Return to the hostel and tell the guy that the place is closed. He calls them for me and now they are open. Typical!

Bike collected and loaded up I ask about the best route out of the city to get to the coast. He suggests that I go north to Astara, right next to the border with Azerbaijan. The road does follow the border as at one point there's a fence with razor wire on top. The road I take winds its way into the mountain and has some nice bends on the way down. There are people selling berries and honey all along the road. Throw in the overloaded trucks for good measure it's a dangerous road to be on.

I was looking forward to a ride next to the Caspian Sea, the map indicated that the road hugs the coast. Not close enough to see anything. I stop for tea and a snack, this of course leads to the usual crowd and usual questions.

Near Langarud a Suzuki GSXR appears, lots of waving and smiles. I pull over and we shake hands and a couple of other bikers stop. Further down the road I stop at a small restaurant and have some grilled meat. There's a bike mechanic next door and he comments on the Ténéré. Then a lot of kids gather around. Photo time.

I decide to look for a place to stay for the evening. It's a seaside resort area so I'm expecting to find a hostel or hotel. I even drive down a road to see if I can camp on the beach but the section I see isn't that appealing. I see a hotel, they want $50 for a suite. No thanks!! Further along the road I stop and ask a man about hotels/hostels nearby. He gestures to come in and see. He was holding a sign which must have been advertising for rooms I guess. I get the room for 60 Tomans. The young guy living upstairs speaks a couple of words of English, he asks if I want to go for a walk and have some entertainment for the evening. I agree. We walk down to the beach on the Caspian Sea, then to a small complex with a café. His brother works there and we get some free drinks. Next it's off to the amusement park and get on some of the rides for free - his friends work there. Cheap night out!

So here I am at a house in Ramsar, the bike parked up with some chickens in the garden. 

Total distance: 344km

Ramsar to Gorgan (day 8)

The day started well, was on the road at 7am. Well pleased as I wanted to make some good progress towards the next border crossing - my transit visa for Turkmenistan starts on the 27th and it's the standard 5 day issue.

I'm following the coast and I'm seeing shops starting to open for business. I also see some place to camp a couple of km's from where I stayed, but I was grateful for the shower and the chance to wash my clothes last night.

The traffic is OK but by lunch time I was starting to get annoyed with it and what happens here when they see a foreign registered vehicle. I'm trying to keep my eyes open, watching for speed bumps (which can catch you out), I'm trying to time my overtakes as the Ténéré isn't that powerful. What usually happens is that there's a car approaching, I accelerate to start my overtake, so does the car behind - he wants to come along side, wave at me and possibly have a conversation! It felt like there were a couple of close calls today and I'd had enough. The traffic around Sari was horrendous. I was told it's supposed to be a nice city but I wasn't prepared to dive into the centre to find out.

All of the cities look the same, I can't distinguish any difference between them as I ride through. I've got a mountain range to my right and the Caspian on my left.

My aim was to reach Gorgan and look at staying at a place mentioned in a travel guide. I find the address and then get the coordinates for the GPS - I've only got a very basic map and not street information. I of course take a wrong turn as I'm homing in on the coordinates but with little success. It's a dead end street, so I turn around and ask two people on the street if they know of a hotel I can stay at. No, no idea. The woman tells me to wait outside a building and a man comes out who speaks some English. He asks me what I'm doing in the region how long I'm staying. He wants my passport, I tell him no but show him a photocopy of it.

A small crowd gas gathered and I'm trying to ask if there are more hotels further along the route I'm taking. They can't seem to answer me. The man comes back and gives me an address and tells me that I must stay there tonight. It's another 17km out of town and not in my direction of travel. I start going but then I decide to turn around and continue on my original route, if I see something I'll stop. I pass a park area, I ask the guards if I can camp for one night. They nod and I park up.

Yep, another crowd has gathered. They're shy at first but as soon as one approaches then that's the signal for the others to come forth. Camera phones are out, pictures are being taken, kids are sitting on the bike. One guy points to his two daughters, and then points to me. Is this some marriage proposal going on? Time to get a picture of the girlfriend to show them. I'm scared that any movement would result in me having to marry one of the girls.

I've had enough and I wave my arms about to show that I've had enough. Some of them move away. Another man and his son come along, they want a picture. He then gets his son to bring back some watermelon for me. I'm grateful as it's been 36 degrees today.

Eventually they all get in their cars and buses and leave. I can get the tent set up and try to rest. I've not eaten today and I'm starting to feel weak.

A while later the guard comes past and invites me to their building for a tea. They even refill 2 of my water bottles. He then tells me to move my bike and tent nearer to the building so that he can watch over it during the night.

Total distance travelled: 429km

Urmia to Ardabil (day 6)

Left the guest house about 11am this morning which was a bit later than I wanted to leave but it was nice to stay in the company of the others.

Hossein showed me the road out of town which went towards the lake. I don't think I would have found my way out of there by myself. Traffic wasn't bad and the weather was good. The road goes straight to the lake.

I'm approaching the bridge and I see a police sign, so I was preparing to stop and see if they'd let me pass. There's no one at the check point on my side but the guard on the other side comes over. We have the usual conversation, he's speaking to me like a native and I'm shrugging my shoulders like normal. I hand sign if I can go - he nods but insists I give it some gas on my way out of there!

The bridge goes through the lake and it's difficult to see where the lake ends. It looks like the water has retreated and it looks like the salt flats on one side. I have to stop to take some pictures.

I continue and there's another check point, all smiles and I'm just waved through. I see a sign for bridge toll ahead. This is going to be fun, as I'm not sure what will happen and I'm having trouble with the currency, rials or toman. I approach the booth - Hello! Where are you from? I'm getting used to the speed dating conversation here. We chat in basic English. I ask how much for the bridge - for you it's OK, no need to pay. Great!! Off I go and continue driving. I'm finding that cars are following me really close, too close for my liking. It turns out they're checking the registration and as they pass I get a wave or plenty of honking of horns. One guy nearly caused an accident in his attempt to get close and have the occupants way to me.

The roads are good and I'm heading for Tabriz and hopefully the Caspian Sea today. I settle into a 95km/h rhythm and all is well. Watching the semi desert landscape on either side of me. A couple of local bikers appear from nowhere and they're behind me for a few km's. I let them pass and I eventually meet them again in the town where I stop for lunch.

I was looking for a place to eat but couldn't find anything. A guy in a car says hello to me and I ask him about somewhere to eat. He brings me to a place and orders for me and even checks the price I should be paying. He writes down a couple of useful phrases for me that I can use. I get moving again and I'm having trouble getting out of the town, no idea where to go. I stop and ask for directions, one guy gets some paper and draws out a map for me. I take a wrong turn, I stop to ask some military guy, he smiles and points me in the right direction. So far everyone seems happy to help.

I pull in for a fuel stop. No green pumps so I'm wondering if the have petrol. Yes they nod. More hand waving and some basic English. I'm told to park the bike and come in for a tea. One guy asks where I'm from. I tell him Ireland. He removes his necklace which has a coin on it and tells me he wants a coin from Ireland. I've got some Euro coins in my pocket and try to find one. He settles for a €2 coin as it matches the size of the other coin. I ask about hotels in the next town, they seem to suggest they're cheap but they offer to let me sleep at the petrol station for free tonight.

I arrive into the town of Ardabil, chaotic as usual, busy roads, drivers all over the road. I take a turn at random and ask about a hotel. I come to what looks like a dead end but there's a police officer there. I ask about a hotel, he points to the hostel behind me. OK, that could do for tonight.

The owner shows up and tells me I should go park down the street at a parking lot. They will open at 9am. Tell him no as I want to be on the road sooner than that. He finds me another car park. Bike is tucked away for the night in a multistory carpark. Collect it in the morning.

Total distance covered: 460km

Kovancilar to Urmia (day 5)

I get my 4am wake up call, why break with tradition?

I leave the 'hotel' and I'm on the road just before the sun rises. Turkey again reveals that it has some stunning roads and scenery to offer.

I'm following the signs towards Van and I reach what I think is the sea but it's in fact lake Van Gölü. It's a magnificent sight and the water is a rich blue in colour. The road hugs the lake until I see the sign for Iran.

I'm heading for Baskale, Yüksekova and eventually Esendere. After I take the road for Iran I get a strange feeling - all I have in front of me is a straight road with nothing much else around. I suddenly think that I should have filled the tank up a few km back. I then pass old abandoned petrol stations and I'm not feeling very confident about my fuel range!

I find fuel at a small village and then get back on the road. I'm a few minutes out of town and in my shaking mirror I think I see a motorbike light. I do a double take, yes, it's two bikes and they're travelling my way. The first bikes I've  seen on my trip.

We ride together as I know they're going to Iran too. Then I recall the email from Hossein, he's expecting a couple to arrive at the guest house tonight. Maybe it's them?

The road to the boarder is great with a treat of a mountain pass that rises to just over 2,700m and the view on the valley below is amazing. Spectacular. We continue down the other side and there's more construction work going on. The old road is being widened and of course what better way to keep you on your toes when riding - have some loose gravel on blind bends.

There's a lot of military presence in the area. We arrive at the final turning for Yüksekova and there's a military check point, we're asked to slow down. Problem? No, we're waved through without any issues. The road is 2 lanes and it weaves its way through a valley. It's light with traffic until we get to some sort of gathering/demonstration. No idea what's going on except that there are people all crowded under a tree. In Yüksekova there's a heavy presence of police armored cars. One is driving in the same direction as us and the machine gun is swiveling around. Searching for what??

We stop at a petrol station and finally do the formal introductions - Björn and Willemenia. They're riding BMW's - black 800gs and 650 Sertao. Where you guys headed? Sydney. Ahh, makes me little tour seem like a Sunday ride them.

40km from the border now and they message Hossein that we'll be there soon. Esendere border crossing is under construction, the place is a mess. No signs to indicate where to go. People pointing you in various directions. First check is for vehicle check. Hand over document, guy taps in reg number. Confirm that's my name on the screen and off I go to passport control. That's about 200m further down the construction site.

Cut to the front of the queue. A guy wearing jeans and a T-shirt stops me. You need to do passport control. OK, where? The building behind me. Walk in and I've no idea where to go. First desk, nope this is for people leaving Iran and entering Turkey. Try the next guy. Next guy, all good, passport stamped, proceed to Iran side. Iran side, "welcome, come this way". Friendly reception, passport taken and checked. I hear, " Kennst du Deutsch ". What is turning into, German lessons on the road. It's an Iranian guy who lives in Germany and is back visiting his parents. We chat and he translates for the border guards who want to know where I'm from etc..I get offered tea but I'm sweating so I politely decline.

Passport back I ask about my Carnet, where do I go. I'm brought to another office and told to wait. One guy looks at me, takes a look at my documents and tells me to sit down. I notice a little sign above his head - 'director'. 15 minutes later the Carnet has been stamped. I can go?? Yes!! All happy that I can take the bike and move it. Wrong! I'm walking back from the Iranian side towards the bike. One guy has my documents and tells me I'm good to move, the border guard with the machine gun on his lap seems to think not. His colleague tells him it's fine. I get on the bike and move it. Turkish guy in jeans from earlier tells me to bring the bike back. Why?? I've not cleared vehicle customs. Again? Which desk? Some random stranger brings me to the desk. Another 5 minutes and I'm good to go.

Go back out, Mr Jeans tells me I'm finally good to go. I park next to the  BMW's. Iranian guy comes out and asks me for my documents. Sorry but no idea where they are, your colleague took them. Another border guard steps in and helps me. He brings me back into the passport control area. Hossein is standing there with all my documents. Relief. I realise I've left my key in the ignition, another little panic. A while later I go to get my key and over enthusiastic guard keeps asking for my passport. Don't have it I tell him!

Hossein knows the people here and has managed to get barriers opened quicker. Passport checked by Mr Enthusiastic and we ride towards the Iranian barrier. Nope, we're greeted by a large man with a serious amount of cash in his hands. Time to change money. He's interested in Euros and not dollars. Maybe he's got a swap deal going on the Grexit, who knows. Money changed and I'm an instant millionaire.

We follow Hossein to his guest house in Urmia. Traffic in the city is manic, a bit different to what I experienced in India. I think the simple rule is try not to get hit!

Arrive at the guest house, there are two other bikes and a jeep from Australia.

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Distance travelled: 660km