Khujand to Osh (day 16)

Had a very bad night's sleep, woke up a few times during the night and was wide awake by 4am. Shame the border isn't open so that I could have crossed!

I left the hotel at 7:30 and merged into the morning traffic. There are plenty of cars out but traffic is moving. I see the marshruktas out and they're an unknown quantity on the roads as the stop at any point without much notice. Only issue is that in Tajikistan they're Ford Transit sized as opposed to the miniature ones in Uzbekistan. I also realise that it's Sunday but it's far from quiet.

The road started well but shortly after leaving the city it became very bumpy. It slowed progress but it turns out that it was the optimal speed to travel at - I arrive at the border a few minutes before opening.

Guard was making a cross sign with his arms, it's closed and I'm thinking that I'm going to have to turn back. I go through and it takes a few minutes to clear the vehicle customs and then passport control. So it's bye bye Tajikistan and hello again Uzbekistan.

Guard at the gate is friendly. Checks my passport and then the doctor takes my passport for registration. No check this time. I'm ready for the next check point. Passport and vehicle. The guards are friendly and actually want to have a chat. The declarations are signed and off we go for the baggage check. Open the side bags, they have a look and they aren't interested in my roll bag. They're satisfied and I can leave. I check the time and it's taken me one hour and ten minutes to get through both border controls. Result!

The guards assure me that there is petrol ahead. I think I can make it to Osh on this tank but I don't want to risk it.

The landscape has changed again, it's mostly farmland with the occasional donkey or cow tied up at the side of the road grazing away. Then I see the post apocalyptic petrol stations that are all closed. Hmm, lower speed and get through on one tank or speed up a bit and pray for a fuel station somewhere ahead. Can the sphincter muscle cope?

200km into my tank of fuel and there's a petrol station. In fact there are several in this town. So fuel it seems isn't so much of a problem in this part of Uzbekistan. Earlier there was a station with a man sat outside but he waved me on telling me they had no fuel.

Today wasn't a long ride but it took nearly 12 hours to get to Osh. On the road to Andijan there were several police controls which this time required me to stop and have documents checked and noted in the book. I think I had three or four just to get to the border.

I get to the border and I think the guys at the other border must have called ahead and told the guys to take their time with me. Usual routine, guard checks passport, opens gate, drive to first building. Passport and customs. Except now I'm requested to bring the bike back to a camera 50 metres from the building. We need to take a picture of the number plate. The guy insists I clean it. Out come the baby wipes and I clean it. Nope, he's not happy, clean it again! Photo taken, I can go back to get my passport stamped.

All done and I'm ready to leave but the guards aren't in a hurry. They make we wait, one takes my documents again and disappears for 10 minutes. Get them back and think I can go. No, of course not, we need to check your bags. Finally I'm allowed to leave but not until some other guy shows up and asks me questions and wants to check the medication I have with me. Grr....

Off to tackle the Kyrgyzstan border now. No visa required here, just a stamp in the passport. Approach gate, I'm let in and go through passport control, then customs. One guard asks me how long I'm staying. I say about two weeks. He tells me that I need to be out of the country by the 11th August.

There's some frustration with the documents. Passport, vehicle registration then the ask for it again. They mean drivers license. OK, then they want a  number for the vehicle  document.

Once I'm done I'm off into Osh trying to find a place to stay. After several wrong turns I get to a hotel. It's alright and I might take a day off from riding tomorrow.

Most memorable image of the day: seeing a motorbike with sidecar coming towards me and then seeing the rider operating the throttle from his seated position on the sidecar!

Total distance: 326km