The day started well, was on the road at 7am. Well pleased as I wanted to make some good progress towards the next border crossing - my transit visa for Turkmenistan starts on the 27th and it's the standard 5 day issue.
I'm following the coast and I'm seeing shops starting to open for business. I also see some place to camp a couple of km's from where I stayed, but I was grateful for the shower and the chance to wash my clothes last night.
The traffic is OK but by lunch time I was starting to get annoyed with it and what happens here when they see a foreign registered vehicle. I'm trying to keep my eyes open, watching for speed bumps (which can catch you out), I'm trying to time my overtakes as the Ténéré isn't that powerful. What usually happens is that there's a car approaching, I accelerate to start my overtake, so does the car behind - he wants to come along side, wave at me and possibly have a conversation! It felt like there were a couple of close calls today and I'd had enough. The traffic around Sari was horrendous. I was told it's supposed to be a nice city but I wasn't prepared to dive into the centre to find out.
All of the cities look the same, I can't distinguish any difference between them as I ride through. I've got a mountain range to my right and the Caspian on my left.
My aim was to reach Gorgan and look at staying at a place mentioned in a travel guide. I find the address and then get the coordinates for the GPS - I've only got a very basic map and not street information. I of course take a wrong turn as I'm homing in on the coordinates but with little success. It's a dead end street, so I turn around and ask two people on the street if they know of a hotel I can stay at. No, no idea. The woman tells me to wait outside a building and a man comes out who speaks some English. He asks me what I'm doing in the region how long I'm staying. He wants my passport, I tell him no but show him a photocopy of it.
A small crowd gas gathered and I'm trying to ask if there are more hotels further along the route I'm taking. They can't seem to answer me. The man comes back and gives me an address and tells me that I must stay there tonight. It's another 17km out of town and not in my direction of travel. I start going but then I decide to turn around and continue on my original route, if I see something I'll stop. I pass a park area, I ask the guards if I can camp for one night. They nod and I park up.
Yep, another crowd has gathered. They're shy at first but as soon as one approaches then that's the signal for the others to come forth. Camera phones are out, pictures are being taken, kids are sitting on the bike. One guy points to his two daughters, and then points to me. Is this some marriage proposal going on? Time to get a picture of the girlfriend to show them. I'm scared that any movement would result in me having to marry one of the girls.
I've had enough and I wave my arms about to show that I've had enough. Some of them move away. Another man and his son come along, they want a picture. He then gets his son to bring back some watermelon for me. I'm grateful as it's been 36 degrees today.
Eventually they all get in their cars and buses and leave. I can get the tent set up and try to rest. I've not eaten today and I'm starting to feel weak.
A while later the guard comes past and invites me to their building for a tea. They even refill 2 of my water bottles. He then tells me to move my bike and tent nearer to the building so that he can watch over it during the night.
Total distance travelled: 429km
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